Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to explore these stories and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
